18th January 2013

Buenos Aires has continued to enchant me these last few days…

When I last signed off I was on my way to a restaurant called Juana M. that sits at the end of Avenida 9 de Julio, the main drag in town who's name commemorates the date Argentina won its independence. My quest was to find Asado de Tira (beef ribs) and a quick look at trip advisor (not my usual move but no local knowledge was close at hand) suggested I could find some good ones here, only a 20 minute walk from my hotel.

I arrived at 9pm safe in the knowledge that I'd be a little earlier than is conventional here, alas my appetite wouldn't permit any further delay. Consequently the vast basement the restaurant occupied was pretty empty. Still I didn't really crave too much of a buzz and as time passed it started to fill with an urbane clientèle. I chose to go straight to the main course and as per the master plan opted for Asado de Tira with some papas fritas a la provencal. Unfortunately for my prospects of starting tomorrow hangover free wine was only available by the bottle so I had to make do with a bottle of Argentinian malbec to accompany dinner. Things got even more mouth watering when my waiter let me know that I could help myself to the salad bar while I waited for my order and what a salad bar it was! Pretty much every variation of salad I know of was there for my delectation. As is my way when I find myself confronted by a opulent buffet (it was much closer to buffet than what I would usually term salad bar) I did my best to try a little of everything, though my plate nor common sense would allow complete coverage. Particular highlights included the three different type of potato salad, spinach leaves in a light mustardy mayonnaise, and a sort of quinoa tabbouleh thing.

When I arrived back from the salad bar my ribs and papas fritas were waiting on the table and it was time to make a start on my one man feast. Rather than presenting the ribs in the manner of chops they were cross cut, a new one on me but it seemed to offer two noticeable benefits... First there was much less fiddling around getting the meat of the bones, second they were cooked medium rare which in my limited culinary knowledge isn't always possible when there are large pieces of bone that need to get cooked through. All of the food was delicious and rather fortunately the vast quantities I consumed seemed to hold at bay the full impact of the bottle of wine, at least until morning. After trying and failing to tackle a super rich chocolate mouse I trundled back to the hotel to sleep off the meat and wine. My full belly, the wine and perhaps my location filled my sleep with vivid dreams which I can't quite recall.

As expected I awoke feeling a little fuzzy but a quick infusion of water and stroll into the warm sun soon put pay to all that. In the afternoon I met with my Argentinian friend Marco who'd just returned to Buenos Aires after spending a year or two in Bolivia, Peru and Chile. Originally we'd planned to spend the day in the Tigre delta just outside of Buenos Aires but the late start necessitated alternative arrangements. Marco arrived thermos flask in hand matte cup and straw in the other and we headed for a cafe and a brief lesson in Argentinian history Marco kindly offered to provide.

As we sat in the shade of a cafe's parasols once more on Avenida 9 de Julio next to a huge obelisk Marco explained how Argentina came into being. It was an interesting story which I hesitate in regurgitating too much of for fear of getting it wrong but I'll risk a few details… Argentina's birth came about in much the same way as the US. Here just as with the US settlers there was a deep seated resentment about the taxes and patronage levied by the crown (Spanish rather than British) with little if anything to show for it. Unlike the US the country and constitution that emerged didn't consist of a federation of states but a more centralised government dominated by Buenos Aires. Although this was a contentious point and Argentinian if only in name calls actually calls itself a federation. This issue is embodied in the struggle between the rest of Argentina and Buenos Aires who Marco tells me still to this day are pretty distinct, with Buenos Aires continuing to assert its hegemony over the rest of Argentina to this day. The birth of the nation also witnessed the arrival of the strongman as the prototypical model for Argentinian leaders which is still very much alive today, even the latest incarnation is wearing a dress and sporting a few nips and tucks.

Later that night I met with Maddie and Heather, two Australian girls I'd met in the Adventure Brew hostel in La Paz who'd arrived in Buenos Aires for the conclusion of their whistle stop tour round most every part of South America. They were staying in a part of town called San Telemo situated near the port. After saying our hellos and catching up on travels post La Paz (they'd been hiking in Patagonia) we took a cab up to a restaurant Marco suggested we go to in the district where Tango was invented. The restaurant was an authentic Padilla joint with countless football strips suspended from the ceiling and a lower key feel than the restaurant I'd visited the day before. For the third night running it was time to get involved with some serious meat. Maddie and I shared a vast asado platter, this consisted of: a disk of grilled provolone cheese covered in oregano, chinchulines (chitterlings), tripa gorda (large intestines), Molleja (sweetbreads), half a chicken, on the bone, Asado de tira (beef ribs), Vacio (flank steak), Bife de Chorizo (porterhouse), Entrana (skirt steak), and kidneys; topped off with a large plate of chips. I'm happy to report we spent pretty much and hour devouring almost all of it, washed down with some Malbec and Cabernet Sauvingon expertly chosen by Heather our resident wine expert.

After dinner we went back to Marco's place in the Palermo district where his brother Lucio and a couple of his friends were hanging out. A good few cervezas and laughs were had, not to mention Marco's wonderful mandolin playing and impromptu juggling display. Eventually got back to my hotel a little drunk and sated with meat.

As might be expected after such an extravagant evening of eating and drinking it took a little while to get going but eventually I managed to get into the sunshine. While Heather lunched Maddie and I lounged around on the roof terrace at her hostel with little sign of our appetites returning any time soon. A stroll to a cafe, a few beers, a little chocolatey thing and a couple of rounds of chatterbox followed before the inevitable siesta. On waking and feeling much refreshed we decided to go for dinner in a square just down the road from the girls hostel. And what a square it was. We arrived to a three piece jazz outfit (double bass, drums and keys) playing in the wide square that opened out from the narrow street lined with bohemian shops and street art. We took a table not far from the band among dinners of all ages, a couple of street urchins performing an array of breakdancing moves and a smattering of street vendors selling bracelets, taro readings and cards of no discernible value. After a delicious vegetable soup (based on a chicken broth!) I briefly contemplated having fish before finding my senses and opting for ojo de bife (rib eye steak) served rare with potato gratin, papas fritas provencal and slow cooked sweet peppers we all shared. Where the previous nights meat fest had provided a startling variety of flavours and texture tonight's beef was quite simply the best steak I think I've ever eaten. As we enjoyed the delights of the food the jazz band took a recess while at the other side of the square a rock / blues outfit struck up, treating us to a wide range of classics from Hendrix to Muddy Waters, Cream to Bob Dylan. To say I'd found a piece of heaven in this wonderful square doesn't really feel like it does it justice, it was blissful. As the jazz band continued to lay down a soundtrack that both soared and slinked we soaked up the vibes of the square and sat late into the night enjoying the music, wine and good company. I'm really not sure how I'm going to be able to tear myself way from this place?

Today's been a more sedate and beef free affair. Most of which I've spent preparing for interviews with co-ops here and back in Bolivia. Tomorrow its the Tigre delta which promises another perspective on Buenos Aires and chapter two of my Argentinian history lesson with Marco.